Hair Color Developer: Which Volume to Use and Why

Developer is half the equation in hair coloring. Choosing the right volume is just as important as selecting the right dye.

What is Developer?

Developer (also called activator, oxidizer, or peroxide) is a hydrogen peroxide solution that:

1. Opens the hair cuticle
2. Activates the dye pigments
3. Lightens the natural hair pigment

Volumes and Their Lifting Power

Volume	H₂O₂ %	Lift	Primary Use
10 vol	3%	0-1 level	Color deposit, gray blending
20 vol	6%	1-2 levels	Standard coverage, moderate changes
30 vol	9%	2-3 levels	Medium lift, highlights
40 vol	12%	3-4 levels	High lift (use with caution)

When to Use Each Volume

10 Volume (3%)

Ideal for:

• Depositing color without lifting
• Toning pre-lightened hair
• Soft gray coverage (less than 30%)
• Refreshing mids and ends

Don’t use when: You need lift or to cover resistant grays.

20 Volume (6%)

The most versatile:

• Gray coverage up to 100%
• 1-2 level changes
• Color over color
• Foundation for most services

This is the industry standard for its balance between lifting power and hair integrity.

30 Volume (9%)

For specific techniques:

• Traditional highlights
• Balayage with moderate lift
• Dark bases that need more lift
• Very resistant virgin hair

Caution: Can damage fine or sensitized hair.

40 Volume (12%)

Advanced professional use:

• Quick bleaching
• Very resistant hair
• Specific techniques (with protection)

Warning: High damage risk. Avoid on treated or sensitive hair.

Factors That Influence Your Choice

1. Hair Condition

• Virgin: You can use higher volumes
• Previously treated: Reduce the volume
• Damaged: Maximum 20 vol with treatment

2. Porosity

• High porosity: Absorbs quickly, use lower volume
• Low porosity: May need higher volume or heat

3. Gray Percentage

• < 30%: 10-20 vol
• 30-70%: 20 vol
• > 70%: 20-30 vol with pre-pigmentation

4. Desired Lift Level

• No lift: 10 vol
• 1-2 levels: 20 vol
• 2-3 levels: 30 vol
• 3+ levels: Consider pre-lightening

Color to Developer Ratios

The standard ratio is 1:1 (equal amounts of color and developer), but varies by technique:

Technique	Ratio
Global color	1:1
High-lift tints	1:2
Semi-permanent	1:1 or 1:1.5
Powder lightener	Per manufacturer

Common Mistakes

1. Always using 30 vol “just in case”: Causes unnecessary damage
2. Mixing developers from different brands: Can alter results
3. Not adjusting for hair condition: Every client is different - learn to diagnose in our color level guide
4. Ignoring porosity: Directly affects the outcome

For more common formulation mistakes, check our guide on color formulation errors.

How Blendsor Helps

Blendsor’s AI analyzes your client’s photos and recommends:

• Optimal developer volume
• Color to developer ratio
• Processing time
• Specific precautions

All based on hair condition analysis and the desired result.

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Mastering developers is what separates a good colorist from an excellent one.

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Related articles:

• Complete Guide to Hair Color Levels
• Common Color Formulation Mistakes
• How to Neutralize Unwanted Tones